There are a couple of good guides on Rayburns here at Ebay already. I would like to add some info helpful to beginers. ( I am an amateur too!) . I have to say that regs. now demand a lot of professional instalation work, but even if you do employ a professional, some background knowledge helps. Right here goes!
Models
These progressed through Nos 1,2 Regent, Royal, Supreme, Nouvelle 200and the current models.
The early models must have been good quality to still be serviceable after 50 years, but I suggest you don`t pay too much for them. The later Royal offers some refinements, modest spare parts cost. (eg the solid fuel grate and boiler are simple)and with wood will probably run 2-3 rads hot water.
You can get optional flues on theleft or rightend on the Royal which might be crucial for your instalation. (Butdiscontinued on later models ,right hand only)
The Supreme has a more complex "L" shaped boiler , with an internal boiler flue and so is a better hot water producer. A flap valve allowsyou to choose todirect heat either through the boiler or over the hot plate for cooking .You could run 4 radiators hot water on wood fuel. The penalty is a much higher replacement boiler cost, and an additional chore sweeping and rodding the boiler flue . The solid fuel grate has a series of rocking bars which are expensive. they rest on a "toblerone" shaped support which tends to crack and distort. Obviously the larger Supreme, Nouvelle and following models consume more fuel.
Fuels
Most Rayburns were designed for coal, and are best on it. On coal you can add 1 or 2 radiators to the figures given above for wood.Burning wood has to produce less heat - it has less calories. Cooking can be more hit or miss on wood depending on the quality of wood and how you fire it. My Supreme can get through 2 barrow loads a day, may be 4 tons of wood in a 6 month season. That is an awful lot of collecting, sawingsplitting and stacking. If you burn wood you must be poor, have a free wood source, and want to save the planet. Or you will soon get sick of it! sorry! Or maybe you just want to be warm and hang the expense- buy it in.
There was a multi fuel Rayburn claimed to burn just about every thing, but it seems rare. Standard Rayburns will burn wood well, although the fire bars are spaced a bit wide. You won`t need the rocking grate.
I suspect the heat ouput of wood relates largely to the dry weight alone. So don`t rule out scrap wood, such as pallettes, Laurel, Rhodedendron , anything really as long as it is dry. However, if you have a cold external chimney or a stainless liner you may be wise to avoid resinous wood.If you are buying wood you will ensure it is well seasoned and has some of your favourite species. Mineare Sweet Chestnut and Ash. They spilt easily and season quickly with a fine heat output
Oil and gas. Modern condensing boilers are so much more efficient, the poor old Rayburn simplycan`t compete, so I can`t imagine any one installing one now.
Seller Hype
Sellers are very misleading. Don`t believe the large numbers of radiators claimed for wood fuel. (see above). An overburdened Rayburn producing luke warm output is a miserable affair.Cooking, especially baking needs extra skill if you are used to a thermostatic oven. Slow oven cooking or hob topcan be reliable.
Sellers often claim an oil fired conversionmodel can easily be returned to soild fuel. Not so! the grate, firebricks, ashpanand dampers will have been discarded and need replacement.. Cost about 300. Look carefully to see if extra holes have been cut for air supply and oil lines. I fell for this one, and it was cheaper to buy a second Rayburn for donor parts. Then again most of the parts required are "wearing" items, so you will be getting your reconversion into top condition.
Condition
Rayburns are very repairable. The flue collector boxes (the square bit) tend to crack, but it usually isn`t serious. A worry is the boiler condition, you should view any dampnees in the ashpan with suspicion. Corroded decorative endplates are common as the water pipe unions often weep and misleadingly look like the boiler is at fault. Firebricks and rope seals are all wearing items so expect to replace them.
Moving
Get about 5 wooden rollers made from 3" fence poles sawn up. Scaffold poles are often recommended, but wood is kinder to floors. A crowbar with packing will help lift the Rayburn onto the rollers, and you will need some stout boards eg scaff planks. Your assistant will put the rollers under while you push. Wait till the assistant says ok, so you know their hands are clear. To negotiate humps or hollows balance the Rayburn on 1or 2 rollers so that the front end can be raised or lowered or turned.
The best transport is of course a truck with tail lift. Failing that, a low trailer can be tilted on the jockey wheel to match the slope of your plank ramp. A van may be too high, and need a carefully constructed runway with lots of muscle or a winch.
Before the auction ends quiz the seller about access, and hazards like steps etc.
Installing
Even solid fuel is likely to need professional work and building regulation compliance. On a solid concrete floor my building inspector said no special hearth was needed. On wooden floors you will need a fire proof hearth, and extra support for the weight etc. This could well involve cutting back the wooden floor and making a soild hearth up from the ground. If it is permitted, a lightweight hearth can be made from vermiculite mixed with cement an cast insitu with a brick surround..
Flues
You will need to plan the connection to the flue carefully. If sound, an existing flue might be used. The ideal situation is an inglenook type, where the rayburn can be accommodated inside. A simple vitreous enamel pipe leads up to a blanking plate at lintel height. This blanking plate can have a door for soot, and sweeping. You will need an extra 6" width to allow for the bend and couplings on the water pipes. Builders Merchants keep concretelintels and flue "gathers" (see the Redbank range)to make your owninglenook - but you must support the chimney during installation and this needs competent work.
Try to make provision for easy sweeping, otherwise this essential chore won`t get done. I don`t think it is practical to sweep through the 6" vitreous flue. You will need a separate sweeping door about 1 metre off the floor to allow the rods to bend. If an inglenook isn`t availableRayburn can be placed in to the side or front of an existing chimney breast. the snag is the flue pipe won`t be in line with the centreline of the flue. Careful planning will be needed to arrange the flue to penetrate the brickwork nearly at 90 degrees, eg 2 offbends. Put ina nominal steellintel (EG angleiron). The flue pipe can be sealed into the brick with vermiculite concrete and finishing with a fireproof board and firecement.
Waterworks
The rayburn website has full info .Briefly,.the Rayburn needs a conventional indirectvented 2 tank (in the loft) system. (1 tankfeeding domestic hot water and the other feeds the Rayburn boiler)
The boiler output needs to lead to the hot water cylinder so that hot water will thermosyphon. ie circulate naurally by rising hot water. This is critical for safety as the Rayburn has no safety device to shut down if overheating. So the cylinder must be above the Rayburn and horizontal pipe runs minimal. You can get away with a short horizontal to pass pipes through a wall.
The cylinder must be big to provide a sink for hotwater, and if you can only fit a small cylinder, you will have to put an additional permanently connected radiator in the circuit (safety again). My cylinder is 1000 x 450 with a 20mm heating coiland doesn`t need the extra Rad.
Tee-ing off the boiler out put to the cylinder will be 20mm pipes to the Rads. Upstairs rads will thermosyphon even through short (8`) horizontal sections, and in 15mm pipe.
Greater horizontal runs will need a pump. A problem arises where the pumped return rejoins the boiler return pipe. An "injection" T is required to avoid the pumped water pulling water through the cylinder coil. This tends to cool the cylinder. It isn`t correct on my system, and I`m afraid I haven`t the answer yet!
to be continued...